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Sunday, August 24, 2008

Kids always have to try out the big backpack, backpacking the Pacific Ocean

This is Jeremy 


..trying on the large pack for size.
 He sort of spun out of control like a top going in circles erratically. Fast as they grow, in just a few years, he'll be ready for this pack and will run up and down hills with it on his back. He might if he lived here, yeah,  most likely, growing leg muscles of steel, and incredible balance. He would learn skills learn by backpacking in the woods and all about the land and it's creatures and their close ties to us. He would protect the land. This is what happens to you when you become a hiker.

This photo was taken just after Daphne and Jeremy and I walked to look at the ocean close up for the first time. We made it a big deal in the car pulling near the beach, "take a look , we said, this is your first time to see the Pacific Ocean." I wonder what went through their hearts? It's  awesome with large trees piled on the beach, the surf, and haystacks. Then when we walked up close to where you could get a good look, I myself was in my usual wonder of this extra un-ordinary, extraordinary place, and I have seem it hundreds of times.

 I was curious what they must have felt, because I think it a feeling that comes over you, something that captivates your spirit. It's pure wonder. After this initial peek, we went back to the car and began readying for the trek down past Ellen Creek to find a campsite close to Hole in the Wall. ( I have photos of Hole in the Wall on the next page, I think)

 This beach, Rialto, changes  to Hole in the Wall after you pass through the Hole in the Wall! It becomes many other beach names as you go along. But to me, it is all the same beach. The name is just a defining point, sort of like life is one thing, but has ages that define stages of the continuum. It's true of us, too, we aren't isolated, separate bodies, but, are in a process on a continuum. (My sage wisdom for the day)

Sand Point is about a 3 day hike down the beach. Many people hike this long  stretch of beach that can take you all the way to Shi Shi Beach near where the Makah Indian tribe have lived for hundreds of years ( before the arrival of the big ships). This is at the  furthest  NW point of the continental, or contigious US, also known as Cape Flattery.

Cape Flattery is a high point on the landscape  jutting into the water, where the Makah Indians stood one day to see the coming of the first tall ships into the area, and their lives were to change forever more.  The Makah were affluent, with plenty of salmon to eat, berries, whale, probably bear. 
They lived in long houses made of cedar, and carved sea going vessels out of large cedar trees by burning the center and then chiseling out a cavity. A wonderful cedar long house stands in Neah Bay today, as a museum. It is well worth a visit, as it shows how they lived and a large boat inside with beautiful carving marks. Also basketry was finely woven by Makah women. Out from their home there, large haystacks stand, and it is an incredible cape,  sunsets are stunning. I can post a photo of Cape Flattery another day. But here is a link with information of Neah Bay and Cape Flattery. Cape Flattery "

Here The Straight Of Juan De Fuca empties into the Pacific Ocean.
 A Cape, btw, is a point or head of land projecting into water.

"The Trail provides a view of waves crashing against rocky shores and of Tatoosh Island, a former Makah fishing and whaling camp and more recently a Coast Guard station. Sometimes visitors can catch a glimpse of puffin, sea otters, seals, gray, orca and humpback whales and other marine life. ...
...A short side trip after you come back from the Cape trail, cross over the Waatch River to see Hobuck Beach and the famous Shi Shi Beach...The Trail provides a view of waves crashing against rocky shores and of Tatoosh Island, a former Makah fishing and whaling camp and more recently a Coast Guard station. Sometimes visitors can catch a glimpse of puffin, sea otters, seals, gray, orca and humpback whales and other marine life.... 

....A short side trip after you come back from the Cape trail, cross over the Waatch River to see Hobuck Beach and the famous Shi Shi Beach....The Trail provides a view of waves crashing against rocky shores and of Tatoosh Island, a former Makah fishing and whaling camp and more recently a Coast Guard station. Sometimes visitors can catch a glimpse of puffin, sea otters, seals, gray, orca and humpback whales and other marine life....

...At the end of the 3/4 of a mile hike over a picturesque trail with bridges across wetlands, one will enjoy the views from five observation perches with cedar decks and guard rails. If you bring a lunch or a light snack two picnic tables can be found and the end of the trail also."

Another far west beach is Cape Alava, almost as far west as Flattery is. Longitude of 124° 44′ 11.8″ W. It is truly one of the ends of the earth. The Cape Avala Loop.."Wander the wild, rugged outer coast on this 8.8-mile loop trail leading through coastal forests to miles of rocky tidepools, sea stacks, and arches. With its minimal elevation gain, the loop makes for an easy day hike, but an overnight stay will reward you with golden sunsets in summer and a deep immersion in the sights, smells, and sounds of one of the country’s few wilderness beaches." Trails.com
"Here, archaeologists have excavated dwellings buried by a mudslide 500 years ago. Other buried dwellings date back at least 2,500 years and await further excavation...... The Cape Alava trail begins on an abandoned road and plunges immediately into what feels like Joseph Conrad's "Heart of Darkness," with dense greenery consisting of salal and other shrubs. Most of the trail is on boardwalk, which can be a curse or a blessing, depending on the weather. The boardwalk is slippery when wet, but it also keeps your feet out of the black mud that is prevalent much of the year.

At 2 miles, the forest opens to Ahlstrom's Prairie, a bog that was a lake once upon a geologic time (Ahlstrom also cleared some of this area for pasture). The trail then returns to the gloom of the forest, and the roar of the ocean can now be heard. At 3 1/2 miles, the path drops suddenly to the beach and a collection of excellent campsites.

Several islands can be seen from the beach. Tskawayah Island to the north is part of the Ozette Indian Reservation and clambering on it is not allowed. The Ozette River is 1 1/2 miles to the north and Sand Point is 3 miles to the south.

The beach to Sand Point can be hiked easily at anything below high tide. Three-hundred-year-old petroglyphs can be found about a mile to the south of Cape Alava at Wedding Rocks. Makah tribal members ask that you respect their sanctity and not touch them." Seattle PI article on hike
"Trail data: The Cape Alava/ Sand Point loop is 9 1/2 miles. Cape Alava is six miles round trip (elevation gain is about 500 feet). The recommended map is the Custom Correct Ozette Beach Loop, or Green Trails Ozette No. 130S. For information on conditions, how to obtain permits (required beginning May 1) and entry fees, call the Olympic National Park Wilderness Information Center at 360-452-0300.

Special note: The raccoons at Cape Alava and Sand Point are notorious for stealing backpackers' food. They have developed state-of-the-art pilfering abilities and have been known to open zippers and pockets and perform high-wire acts on ropes strung between trees. Food must be hung out of the animals' reach in raccoon-proof containers or carried with you at all times. They will visit you at dusk and watch you with their shining eyes, waiting for you to make a dumb mistake (such as overlooking that candy bar in your backpack"

I have my own raccoon stories to tell. These are amazing and not to be deterred little creatures. They aren't as rolly polly as the ones that congregate in my back yard, but they sure don't give up, I have had to invent some pretty sophisticated hanging devices working late into the night to keep then from getting my food. (as the little babies watch Mom watching me from high in their tree top).
These days a bear canister is required to keep your food inside, a pain in the neck really to backpack with. Classes on how to hang food intelligently might be a better approach.

 Hmm, I just had an idea for a new invention...I did design a fool proof line that night when they were determined to get my food and I was determined to get some sleep.